A little strange to see this in the New York Times (it may be part of the paper's nationwide expansion strategy), but the Gray Lady gets out to Flour + Water in San Francisco's Mission District. From the review:

"We make the kind of food that chefs like to eat," [Flour + Water chef Thomas] McNaughton said of the restaurant's cooking style. Given the restaurant's name, it should come as no surprise that pizza and pastas are focuses. The kitchen has a wood-fired oven, and Jon Darsky, the pizzaiolo, is a skilled operator; even before you take a bite, the aromas that waft through the restaurant make that abundantly clear. A tangy margherita with fior di latte, a fresh-milk cheese ($13), was delicate yet substantial.

Flour + Water

2401 Harrison Street, San Francisco CA 94110 (Mission; at 20th Street; map)
415-826-7000; flourandwater.com

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