A little strange to see this in the New York Times (it may be part of the paper's nationwide expansion strategy), but the Gray Lady gets out to Flour + Water in San Francisco's Mission District. From the review:
"We make the kind of food that chefs like to eat," [Flour + Water chef Thomas] McNaughton said of the restaurant's cooking style. Given the restaurant's name, it should come as no surprise that pizza and pastas are focuses. The kitchen has a wood-fired oven, and Jon Darsky, the pizzaiolo, is a skilled operator; even before you take a bite, the aromas that waft through the restaurant make that abundantly clear. A tangy margherita with fior di latte, a fresh-milk cheese ($13), was delicate yet substantial.