Posted by Daniel Zemans, October 14, 2009 at 1:45 PM
Serious Eats Chicago contributor Daniel Zemans checks in with another piece of intel on the Windy City pizza scene. Daniel also blogs about Chicagoland pizza with his friends on the Chicago Pizza Club blog. —The Mgmt.
Blue 13
416 W. Ontario Street, Chicago IL 60610 (map); 312-787-1400; blue13chicago.com Getting There: Brown/Purple Line to Chicago, walk 1/4 mile south on Franklin and then west one block on Ontario Pizza Style: Thin crust Oven Type: Gas The Skinny: Proves you don't have to be a pizzeria to put out an outstanding pie Price: $14
When I went to Chicago Gourmet a couple weeks ago for the most overindulgent eating experience of my life, I tried food from about 80 of the best high-end restaurants in Chicago. One item that stood out in a weekend full of delicious bites was a braised pork belly and kimchi dish by chef Chris Curren from a restaurant I had not previously heard of: Blue 13. While waiting in line, I noticed two unique pizzas on their menu, one featuring lobster and one with tuna. Between being blown away by the pork belly and my excitement at two very new (at least to me) pizza toppings, I was determined to get to Blue 13 sooner rather than later.
Sooner came quicker than expected and I found myself at Blue 13 for dinner last week. The restaurant, open for about 15 months, is the joint project of Chef Curren and his longtime friend, general manager Dan Marunowski and is very much molded in their image. The two proudly tattooed guys named the restaurant after a number that's significant in the tattoo world and have decorated part of the restaurant with framed tattoo artwork. Marunowski's previous career was in the music industry and he prides himself on creating a new playlist for the restaurant almost every night. The music, which is not so loud that it impedes conversation, is a mix of alternative and rock largely from artists that those of us who are not into new music have never heard of. The combination of music, tattoos, a decent-sized bar area in the back of the restaurant creates a unique vibe for a restaurant that serves the kind of quality food that Blue 13 puts out, but it's one that I think works well.
The restaurant changes its menu seasonally, but some things are too good to be subject to the whims of the season. One of the dishes that has earned at least a semi-permanent spot on the menu is the "3 Birds" Lobster Pizza, named after the Cleveland-area restaurant Curren worked at before moving to Chicago four years ago and that serves a similar pie. The pizza is so good that Blue 13 actually tried taking it off the menu at one point, but the people rose up in unison and management listened and brought it back.
The star of the pizza is, of course, the ample chunks of fresh lobster. Lobster, a rich and versatile meat that I love, can be a little bland on its own. But when paired appropriately with other foods, as is the case with this pizza, lobster can work magic.
The nice layer of gooey manchego cheese is just sharp enough to add the kind of great flavor that mozzarella can only dream of, and does it while adding a healthy dose of salt. Balancing out that saltiness are caramelized cipollini onions, which add a touch of sweetness to the pizza. The roasted garlic purée, used in lieu of a sauce, shines through in every bite, but is sufficiently subdued that the rest of the ingredients are able to do their thing. The crust was both crisp and chewy, although on my pizza it leaned closer to the chewy side of the spectrum. A little crisper and this pizza would have gone from merely excellent to sensational.
By the time I got to Blue 13, the menu had changed and the tuna pizzeta, which had ahi carpaccio, wasabi cream cheese, pickled ginger and cucumber, was no longer available. Currently, the lobster pizza is the only pie offered, but other ones will surely come and go in the future. Despite pizza playing a small role on their menu, Blue 13 does use a pizza oven. They actually use the oven for some of their other dishes, particularly finishing off meats when higher heat is called for. Everything my guest and I had at Blue 13 was exceptional, and I really can't recommend the place enough for those interested in contemporary American cuisine.
The idea of lobster pizza sounds amazing but it doesn't look like there is much lobster on here. Or maybe there is too much cheese? I wouldn't want to cover up the lobster flavor with too much cheese.
@Chew on That: There's definitely more lobster on the pizza than appears in the picture. It wasn't overflowing with lobster, but I definitely didn't feel close to cheated. The manchego had a strong flavor but there was enough lobster that I could taste it in almost every bite.
Hey Daniel, great write up on Blue 13 and Gourmet Chicago. GC is now the only thing on my 2010 calendar. Ive been wondering, have you ever tried Porretta's? Nothing inventive like a lobster pizza but its awesome thin crust chicago style. I'd love to hear what you think about it.
Todd English does something similar at Kingfish in Boston -- he has a "lobster grilled cheese" with fontina on brioche. I find it tasty, but as a New Englander I think there is something wrong and gross about melting cheese (particularly a funky one like manchego, which when it melts becomes greasier) on top of lobster meat which, when fresh, stand on its own in terms of taste. In reading your comment about lobster being "a little bland on its own", I wonder about the freshness of the lobster you have been eating. I think seafood on pizza works better with those creatures who are naturally complimented by the unctuousness and tang of cheese - littleneck clams or shrimp come to mind.
In anticipation of potential responses, I would add that while seafood like lobster does get put in cream sauce with undeniable success, I would point out that such sauces can drip and fall away once the seafood is speared by a fork -- that lets the bite of seafood flavor stand on its own, unhindered by sauce. In contrast, melted cheese smothers and diminishes the seafood flavor. Fresh lobster is a delicate flavor. I say leave it off pizza!
@forzapizza: I haven't tried Porretta's. I'm always happy to try a new cracker crust pie, so perhaps a trip over to Portage Park is in order.
@miznoodles: I'm a little confused by your response. When lobster is served in a sauce, do you think the chef's intent is for the diner to let the sauce fall away from the lobster before eating it? Seems to me the intent is for the creamy, usually well-seasoned sauce to be enjoyed with the lobster. It works frequently in that scenario and, I thought, it worked really well at Blue 13 on a pizza.
Daniel, I would love to set that up for you. Its my family's restaurant and I work there on occasion. If you do decide to go please let me know and I can have something prepared. The best of the menu as well as the pizza. My email is alberto@forzapizza.com so please contact me. You can contact me through my website as well Contact Me. Thanks!!
This goes for everyone! If youre lookin for some delicious italian food let me know!
-forza pizza
Porretta's Site. (please excuse the halloween party advertisement on the homepage =). free pizza though!
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7 Comments:
The idea of lobster pizza sounds amazing but it doesn't look like there is much lobster on here. Or maybe there is too much cheese? I wouldn't want to cover up the lobster flavor with too much cheese.
Chew on That at 4:37PM on 10/15/09
@Chew on That: There's definitely more lobster on the pizza than appears in the picture. It wasn't overflowing with lobster, but I definitely didn't feel close to cheated. The manchego had a strong flavor but there was enough lobster that I could taste it in almost every bite.
Daniel Zemans at 9:14PM on 10/15/09
Hey Daniel, great write up on Blue 13 and Gourmet Chicago. GC is now the only thing on my 2010 calendar. Ive been wondering, have you ever tried Porretta's? Nothing inventive like a lobster pizza but its awesome thin crust chicago style. I'd love to hear what you think about it.
Thanks,
forzapizza
forzapizza at 10:54AM on 10/16/09
Todd English does something similar at Kingfish in Boston -- he has a "lobster grilled cheese" with fontina on brioche. I find it tasty, but as a New Englander I think there is something wrong and gross about melting cheese (particularly a funky one like manchego, which when it melts becomes greasier) on top of lobster meat which, when fresh, stand on its own in terms of taste. In reading your comment about lobster being "a little bland on its own", I wonder about the freshness of the lobster you have been eating. I think seafood on pizza works better with those creatures who are naturally complimented by the unctuousness and tang of cheese - littleneck clams or shrimp come to mind.
miznoodles at 1:29PM on 10/16/09
In anticipation of potential responses, I would add that while seafood like lobster does get put in cream sauce with undeniable success, I would point out that such sauces can drip and fall away once the seafood is speared by a fork -- that lets the bite of seafood flavor stand on its own, unhindered by sauce. In contrast, melted cheese smothers and diminishes the seafood flavor. Fresh lobster is a delicate flavor. I say leave it off pizza!
miznoodles at 1:36PM on 10/16/09
@forzapizza: I haven't tried Porretta's. I'm always happy to try a new cracker crust pie, so perhaps a trip over to Portage Park is in order.
@miznoodles: I'm a little confused by your response. When lobster is served in a sauce, do you think the chef's intent is for the diner to let the sauce fall away from the lobster before eating it? Seems to me the intent is for the creamy, usually well-seasoned sauce to be enjoyed with the lobster. It works frequently in that scenario and, I thought, it worked really well at Blue 13 on a pizza.
Daniel Zemans at 5:13PM on 10/16/09
Daniel, I would love to set that up for you. Its my family's restaurant and I work there on occasion. If you do decide to go please let me know and I can have something prepared. The best of the menu as well as the pizza. My email is alberto@forzapizza.com so please contact me. You can contact me through my website as well Contact Me. Thanks!!
This goes for everyone! If youre lookin for some delicious italian food let me know!
-forza pizza
Porretta's Site. (please excuse the halloween party advertisement on the homepage =). free pizza though!
forzapizza at 5:56PM on 10/16/09