Recently appointed New York Times restaurant critic Sam Sifton today unleashes the 11 best bites he has sampled so far in his new capacity at the paper. Co. Company makes the list:
The Meatball Pizza at Co.: Jim Lahey's much debated Chelsea pizzeria is devoted almost to a fault to the excellence of its dough, as Frank Bruni sagely pointed out in his one-star review of the restaurant in the spring. But in recent months, Mr. Lahey's been dialing in his toppings and the use of his insanely hot oven; he's now putting out pies that are good enough to do justice to his dough and to rival the city's best pizzas. The veal meatball version, with buffalo mozzarella, tomato, caramelized onions, gaeta olives, aged pecorino and oregano, is my favorite.