Slideshow: Flo Consiglio of Sally's Apizza, a Keeper of the Flame

The Matriarch
The Matriarch
Flo Consiglio has been running the show at Sally's Apizza ever since her husband Sally (Salvatore) Consiglio died and left his two sons, Robert and Richard, as pizza-making heirs. Mrs. Consiglio commandeers the booth nearest the register and keeps a sharp eye on the night's cash flow.

[Photograph: Adam Kuban]

Signage
Signage
The Sally's sign is known to generations of New Havenites, Yalies, and pizza freaks. "Apizza" is what they call pizza in parts of Connecticut — pronounced ah-beetz.

[Photograph: Adam Kuban]

Time for Pizza
Time for Pizza
You've gotta love this clock, which shares a tagline with the take-out boxes, "Baked and served on the premises." As if it would be baked and served elsewhere! (This clock was not working as of the night we visited — but, hey, it's right at least twice a day.)

[Photograph: Adam Kuban]

"Plain" Pie
This is what you get when you order a "plain" pie at Sally's. This ain't New York City, where a "plain" pie indicates crust, sauce, and cheese but no toppings. At Sally's, as in New Haven in general, "plain" means crust, sauce, and just a dusting of aged cheese, such as the Romano used here.
Park It
Park It
The red vinyl booths look like they haven't been changed since the place last remodeled, which I'm guessing was in the late '70s or early '80s. If you're not a regular, you might get more of these booths than you want — the service can be infamously unfriendly.

[Photograph: Adam Kuban]

Tomato-Slice Pie with Mozz
Tomato-Slice Pie with Mozz
This was Ed Levine's favorite pie of the night. This medium pie is a little closer to round than the large pies Sally's serves, which are oblong.
"CC + Meat"
I have no idea what "CC" means. The "meat" here is sausage, though I don't know how they keep it straight when they also have bacon and pepperoni on the menu — which you'd think would also qualify as "meat." I am usually all over a sausage pie, but at Sally's the "plain" pie was my favorite. Though I wouldn't kick this one out of bed.
Neon
Neon
The tantalizing view as you wait in line. I do have to warn you, even though I have been mostly cheerful about Sally's in this particular post, I will direct you to this post, which explains how Sally's service can be night and day. The first time I visited, as a nobody, I had the worst service of any restaurant in my life. I never wanted to go back. When I visited with Ed Levine, however, who has an "in" with the crew, we were set. If you are going as an average, non-regular patron, the wait and the service can be grueling.