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[Photographs: New York Times]

The New York Times takes a look at the newish Frank Pepe's branch that opened in Yonkers in early November of last year:

The pizza is very good — although you have to be careful what you order. The original tomato pie, a Spartan exercise in dough topped only with crushed tomatoes and a sprinkling of Romano cheese, tasted of good-quality canned tomatoes and little else. That same pie with mozzarella was better, and one with mozzarella and spicy, fennel-spiked pepperoni was downright delicious. A version with plump marinated shrimp was also surprisingly good. And super-strong anchovies on another made the anchovy lover in our group very happy indeed.

This makes it the first New Haven place to encroach upon New York territory. Not that anyone's complaining. Bring it on.

Frank Pepe's Pizzeria (Yonkers)

1955 Central Park Avenue, Yonkers NY 10710 (at Heights Drive; map)
914-961-8284; pepespizzeria.com

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