The Philadelphia Inquierer's Craig LaBan files a rave review of restaurateur Stephen Starr's relatively new Pizzeria Stella in the City of Brotherly Love. Did someone say love? Because, damn, LaBan LOVES the pies here.
While LaBan still views Marc Vetri's Osteria as the gold standard of pizza in Philly, "...no restaurant has refined the eat-in pizza experience with the single-minded focus, quality ingredients, and overall finesse of Stella."
Oh, and after the jump, our man Ed Levine makes a cameo in LaBan's review.
"It's substantial. It's dynamic without being heavy. This," he says, "is very good." A tone of concession then creeps into his voice. "I'm pleasantly surprised."
I also love how Ed has picked up on the term leopard-spotting and uses it in LaBan's presence—and how that term has now made it into the mainstream press. Heh.