Dear Slice

Slice mail answered.

Hopewell NJ: Nomad Now Serving Roman-Style Pizza

From my inbox this morning, some intel from Slice reader and pizza fan Jan K. The Mgmt.

REO

Nomad started as a truck-based operation, cooking pizzas out of a restored 1949 REO Speedwagon. [Photograph: Adam Kuban]

Dear Slice, Letters From Our ReadersEd,

As Adam well knows, Nomad Pizza in Hopewell, New Jersey, offers a very fine forno a legno Neapolitan pizza. Heck, now that he has shuttered his shop, Anthony Mangieri has visited twice (so it must have been good enough to get him back a second time).

In December I was there for my weekly visit, and Stalin Bedon, one of the co-owners, reported that his partner Tom Grim was at that time in Barcelona, then headed to Naples (where he had previously done serious eating), and then on to Rome. Being a fan of Roman pizza (much to the dismay of the purist Neapolitans), I thus emailed him Ed's notes from the lengthy Guide to Naples, which included Rome as something of a very enjoyable afterthought. I also included a few more of my own suggestions in Trasvetere, should Tom's schedule permit.

I am pleased to report that upon his return, Tom enthusiastically set his hand to duplicating Roman pizza, and the result is outstanding. Cracker thin, crisp, with an appropriate amount of charring. Granted, his Naples-trained pizzaiolo, Peter, looks at Tom disdainfully whenever he is asked to make one, but the result is definitely worth enduring his scowl!

As you well know, the Roman pizza is much lighter in texture, and any pizza fan can enjoy one while still reaching across the table for a few slices of the more traditional Neapolitan. Understand that this is the pizza like Da Baffetto, not the wonderful focaccia-like offerings of Forno di Campo Fiori (or Sullivan Street Bakery).

The Roman pizza is not currently on the menu, but with a gentle request, you can happily be provided with one (or more).

Roman pizza is difficult to find here in the U.S., so I would urge you to consider a sojourn to Nomad for a taste comparison. Adam already has enjoyed the Neapolitan; I suspect you'll find the Roman even finer! This is a very fine example.

Happy eating,

Jan K.

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