Slice just ran into Nate Appleman, who, as you may know, is set to open Pulino's Bar & Grill with restaurateur Keith McNally. Appleman tells us two things:
1) That he's about three weeks out from opening Pulino's, and, perhaps more important,
2) That he's not doing Neapolitan-style pizza there.
Say wha? Wasn't that what A16--where he most recently worked as head chef--was known for?
Appleman says he's tired of the soggy centers often found in Neapolitan pies and is looking to do something different. He says he's been working with the bakers at McNally's Balthazar Bakery, and they've come up with a dough that yields crust that's ultra thin yet remains crisp and, he says, exhibits no tip sag.
"It's thin and crisp, but not chewy. It's not like a cracker, but it almost shatters when you bite into it. But it's not tough like a cracker."
The oven, we learned, will be a Wood Stone gas oven with wood assist. But, Appleman says, "if the pizza needs wood, we'll do wood."