Colicchio & Sons Sunday Pizza Night
85 Tenth Avenue, New York NY 10011 (at West 15th; map); 212-400-6699; colicchioandsons.com
Getting there: A/C/E/L to Eighth Ave./14th St.
Pizza style: Neapolitan-inspired
Oven type: Wood Stone gas-fired brick oven, with some wood added
The skinny: Celeb chef Tom Colicchio does "Pizza Night" on Sundays in the Tap Room of his new Colicchio & Sons. Small Neapolitan-inspired pies have a soft, tender dough with variable puffiness
Price: $14 to $16 a pie
A couple weeks ago chef-restaurateur and Top Chef judge Tom Colicchio opened Colicchio & Sons in the space formerly occupied by his Craftsteak restaurant. (See: Opening Night at Colicchio & Sons, SENY.) On the face of it, not a story Slice would take interest in. Except—hey!—this tweet from the man himself: "Pizza night in the tap room at colicchio and sons."
Our man Ed Levine visited the Tap Room of the new joint last week for an upcoming review on Serious Eats New York, had the pizza, and then dispatched yours truly there last night to get some intel.
"Pizza Night" happens on Sundays in the restaurant's Tap Room up front and features five pies on the menu:
- Roasted Tomato and Buffalo Mozzarella
- Artichoke, Prosciutto, and Fresh Ricotta
- Red Onion, Fontina, Potato, and Rosemary (available all week on the Tap Room menu)
- Littleneck and Razor Clams, Salsa Verde, and Chorizo
- Pork Belly, Chanterelles, Roasted Garlic, and Parmesan
I don't want to scoop Ed's review, so I'm just going to take you through a quick gallery of pizza images here. Eat with your eyes, folks!
The Tap Room is a great space—it's comfortable, hip, plays great music yet is quiet enough to hear your dining companions. It's sort of like "Four Seasons Lite": It has that certain air of designery masculinity and see-and-be-seen theatricalism, but it's way more casual than that Midtown power-dining spot. You could, for instance, get away with wearing your "good jeans" here with a sport coat or sweater. (Or whatever that ensemble would be for the ladies.)
At $14 to $16, the pies are priced along the lines of what you'd see in a place serving Neapolitan-style pizzeria, but be forewarned that the pizzas are a bit smaller and less filling than what you might find at, say, Kesté or Motorino. For instance, three of us split four pizzas last night and left sated, but, personally, I feel like I could have eaten a bit more. If you're even a moderate eater, you could easily put away one of these pizzas on your own.
While we noted a lack of salt in the crust, which veered more toward the tender side of the spectrum than crisp, note that the pizzas are a work in progress. It will be interesting to see how these pies develop over the next several weekly Pizza Nights.