Step 1: Puff, Puff, Flip
Allow a 4-ounce ball of your favorite homemade or store-bought pizza dough to rise in an oiled container for an hour and a half at room temperature, then stretch it out on a well-floured surface. Preheat your grill pan over high heat until it just begins to smoke, then transfer the pizza dough to the pan. Brush the top surface with two teaspoons of extra-virgin olive oil combined with a clove of minced garlic. Season with salt. Allow it to cook until large bubbles start forming on the top surface, about 2 minutes total, rotating the crust 45 to 90 degrees half way through cooking.
Step 2: Cook the Second Side
Flip the crust over so that the bubbled side is now facing down. Press gently around the edges and center of the crust with a spatula to ensure that it gets decent contact with the grill pan's bars. Cook until the second side is cooked and darkly charred in spots, about 2 minutes longer.
Step 3: Re-crisp the bottom
Flip the crust over again so that the original top side is now the top side again. At this point, the pizza should still be reasonably pliable, and would make an excellent flatbread or wrap. Reduce the heat to medium to finish cooking and re-crisping the bottom while you top the pie.
Step 5: Crispy and Puffy
Let your pizza cook until the cheese is melted through and the bottom has developed deep char-marks, about a minute longer, then transfer the pizza to a cutting board and serve. If all goes well, your cornicione will be puffy and blistered, and the bottom crust will be crisp and chewy. This particular pie was topped with anchovies and thin-sliced scallions. Delicious.
Step 6: The Undercarriage
As you can see, no tip-sag problems, nice deep char, and a crisp texture. In a hot, NY summer apartment, it don't get much better than this.