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[Photographs: Adam Kuban]

The big news in LaGuardia-based pizza, of course, is that Dom DeMarco Jr. has opened a Di Fara–inspired pizzeria, Tagliare, in the Delta Air Lines terminal.

I am not in the Delta terminal, where the pizza options are so promising. Instead, I took one for the team and sampled Joey's Pizza in the U.S. Airways Terminal.

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A plain slice and a pepperoni-mushroom slice will represent the pizzeria for purposes of this rundown. Both had been sitting long enough that the quality had been significantly compromised.

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The too-soft, spongy crust did not crisp up even after a lengthy reheat in the oven. Though, to be fair, the pizza here pretty much mirrors a mediocre New York slice you'd get at a typical mediocre slice shop. That is to say, it's not any worse for being airport pizza and is, unfortunately, representative of too large a number of NYC pizzerias where you might go for a mindless lunchtime fill-up.

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Here's the undercarriage.

The $3.39 price for a regular slice and the $4.99 whopper for the pepperoni-mushroom slice, however, is where you're reminded all too quickly that you are indeed in an airport.

Well, that and the constant flight-delay announcements.

Other options in the food court are Sky Asian Bistro, McDonald's, Mex in the City (agh, pun, groan), Dunkin' Donuts, a generic-looking table-service restaurant, and something called Cibo Express, a Pret or Au Bon Pain knock-off that serves overpriced sandwiches, granola, fruit salads, etc. Given all that, Joey's might actually be your best, cheapest option.

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