It's nice to find a casual spot in wine country where you can grab a bite without committing to an extravagant meal. If you're in Healdsburg, California, checking out the tasting rooms, one such spot is Bovolo, a little enoteca in the back of a bookstore with home-cured charcuterie and nice-looking salads. You might recognize chef Duskie Estes, also of Zazu Restaurant, from the Food Network's Next Iron Chef. We were there for the pizza, of course, and the special of the day was tasty indeed.
The Zucca ($17.50 for a large) was topped with paper-thin slices of butternut squash, which managed to be lightly sweet without being starchy or heavy. The thinnest edges got nicely crisp, and a sprinkle of chopped sage, olive oil, and flavorful bacon made this the perfect fall pie. (Yes, I'll be trying this topping combo at home—I knew there was a reason to get a mandoline!)
The crust was light and chewy, with a good springy texture, though without much charring. A light layer of Fontina and a sprinkle of Parmesan upped the savory factor: This isn't one of those squash dishes that feels like dessert. Split three ways, it made the perfect lunch for three before we set out again for another few hours of swirling and sipping.