Daily Slice

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Daily Slice: Hangover Brunch Pizza from Vesta, Astoria, Queens

October! National Pizza Month! This month we'll be bringing you Daily Slice, quick snapshots of slices and pies all of us at the Serious Eats empire have been enjoying lately. The Mgmt.

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[Photograph: Adam Kuban]

The wife (aka "Girl Slice") and I go to Vesta for dinner maybe every 3 weeks to a month—it's just a bit north of our general price range; individual dishes there are affordable but end up adding up when you start adding in sides and apps and drinks. But I digress.

Tired of the breakfast and brunch options immediately near our home, we decided to try Vesta on a recent Sunday. I ordered the Hangover Pizza, topped with potato, pancetta, sausage, fried eggs, and a spicy tomato sauce.

While I love Vesta's nonpizza dishes, I'm not sure I'm a huge fan of the pies there. They're very cracker-crusty. No chew, all crunch. It's fine for what it is, and I'm a fan of very crisp pizza, but here it's maybe a touch too dry. It's all very tasty to be sure, and the toppings are top-notch, but after a few slices, I've found that I keep needing more water or beer or wine — something to mitigate the arid crust.

It's probably best to share this pizza if you're interested in it. Girl Slice is a fairweather pizza-eater and warned me that she wasn't in a pizza mood that day, so I had to tackle this thing alone. If kept to one or two slices a person, though, as a shared brunch dish, you'd probably be golden.

Can I reiterate, though, that Vesta is one of our favorites in the neighborhood for non-pizza items? The food is great and the service is friendly. It's in our regular rotation when we want a dinner in the neighborhood that's nicer (if a bit pricier) than MOR Thai. It's basically our "Date Night" place when we don't want to go into Manhattan.

Vesta Trattoria & Wine Bar

21-02 30th Avenue, Astoria NY 11102 (at 21st Street; map)
718-545-5550; vestavino.com

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