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Daily Slice: Maffei Pizza's Oft-Celebrated Grandma Slice Disappoints

October! National Pizza Month! This month we'll be bringing you Daily Slice, quick snapshots of slices and pies all of us at the Serious Eats empire have been enjoying lately. The Mgmt.

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Maffei Pizza's grandma slice has long been celebrated as one of the best of its form in Manhattan. I had one recently, and I have to say, I wasn't feelin' it.

It's always easy to say, "Maybe they were off that day," but Maffei cranks through these slices day in, day out—it was flying out of the pan when I visited just before 1 p.m. Which is to say that they should have things down there.

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The crust is light enough, with a medium crumb, but not much flavor. The best bites come from the chunks of roasted, crushed tomatoes, which make for a sweet bite, but sadly there was not much tomato on my slice. The cheese is a little rubbery and also without much flavor — except for the parts that took on a nice bit of caramelization — again, too few and far between.

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So today's Daily Slice is less a rave and more a gentle heads-up that Maffei may not be what it's cracked up to be.

Maffei Pizza

688 Sixth Avenue, New York NY 10010 (22nd Street; map)
212-929-0949

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