Maffei Pizza's grandma slice has long been celebrated as one of the best of its form in Manhattan. I had one recently, and I have to say, I wasn't feelin' it.
It's always easy to say, "Maybe they were off that day," but Maffei cranks through these slices day in, day out—it was flying out of the pan when I visited just before 1 p.m. Which is to say that they should have things down there.
The crust is light enough, with a medium crumb, but not much flavor. The best bites come from the chunks of roasted, crushed tomatoes, which make for a sweet bite, but sadly there was not much tomato on my slice. The cheese is a little rubbery and also without much flavor — except for the parts that took on a nice bit of caramelization — again, too few and far between.
So today's Daily Slice is less a rave and more a gentle heads-up that Maffei may not be what it's cracked up to be.
688 Sixth Avenue, New York NY 10010 (22nd Street; map)