I think the world of former Serious Eats intern and Utah co-eater extraordinaire Alison Herzog, and I've never had cause to question her taste in food. But that didn't mean I trusted her when she told me that Maxwell's East Coast Eatery in a Park City, Utah, strip mall made "serious New York–style pizza." I mean—I'm from California. There are a dozen pizzerias within ten miles of my hometown that claim "New York pizza." And I've never had a good slice at any of them.
But I have to admit that the pizza at Maxwell's is pretty decent. Super-thin crusted but just sturdy enough to fold, with a lip that's chewy and nicely crisp, a sweet-but-balanced, nicely herbal tomato sauce, and just enough mozzarella. It's a well-structured pie that really is in the model of your average NYC corner slice joint. By the New York standards they're clearly aiming for, it's nothing remarkable, but certainly tasty. The "Fat Kid Pizza," with strange globs of ricotta that looked as if they were squeezed from a tube of toothpaste, was less successful. But the cheese slices? Yum. I'm always skeptical of places that claim East Coast "authenticity," but hey—Italian-blooded, Jersey-born owner Steve Maxwell puts out a good pie.