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[Photographs: Maggie Hoffman]

Pala on Allen Street riffs on Roman-style pizzas sold by the foot and served on pizza peels. The funghi e salsiccia pie ($17) we tried was plenty for two, generously topped with fior di latte and rich fennel-spiked sausage.

The pizza was well-salted and had a delicate hit of hot pepper. The woodsy flavor of the mushrooms seeped into the crust, imbuing it with mushroomyness. My only complaint was that the crust will only appeal to bread lovers who want their pizza soft and pillowy. For me, it was too close to doughy.

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Pala is a good spot for those with food sensitivities: they offer the option of gluten-free pies made with a garbanzo-bean, tapioca, fava, potato, rice, and sorghum crust which are baked in a dedicated oven. A dedicated fryer is used for vegan items as well.

Pala

198 Allen Street, New York NY 10002 (Near Houston St; map)
(212) 614-7252

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