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[Photographs: Maggie Hoffman]

With frozen pizza, do you get what you pay for?

I was a little shocked at the price of the American Flatbread pizza I purchased this week, a 12-inch number topped with tomato sauce, caramelized onions, mushrooms, cheese, and herbs. The damage: $11.99. More than I've ever paid for a frozen pizza, though not as much as we shelled out for Domino's new 6-Cheese Wisconsin pie, which is 13.99 for a 12" medium and $15.99 for 14" in Manhattan.

But the American Flatbread Revolution pie just may be worth the steep price. The cheese is rich and fresh-tasting, properly gooey and not greasy. The mushrooms contribute a remarkably concentrated earthy flavor, especially given how thinly they're sliced. I wish there were more of them, but I'm a big mushroom fan.

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If you're a fan of French onion soup, this pizza's for you. The caramelized onions are quite sweet, and add umami to this vegetarian pie. Luckily, the sauce isn't sweet (and is distributed quite sparingly on the pie.) The herbs add a bit of fresh savory flavor, too.

The only weak point is the crust. I followed the package directions, cooking for eight and a half minutes, since the package warned that overbaking could lead to dryness. While the end crust got a just-crispy exterior and had nice moist texture inside, I think the pie could have used a little more heat to avoid floppiness at the tip of the slice. There's not much of a rise, but after all, they do call it "flatbread" for a reason. That said, the flavor was nice and yeasty, without the health-bread taste of the Amy's pie we tried last week.

This pie may have cost twice (or more) what other frozen pizzas cost, but I think it's worth shelling out the big bucks if flavor is your priority.

More From the Freezer Case

Taste Test: 5 Frozen Pepperoni Pizzas
Dr. Oetker Ristorante Mozzarella Frozen Pizza
Red Baron By the Slice Frozen Pizza
Trader Joe's Pizza Margherita
Amy's Cheese and Pesto Pizza with Whole Wheat Crust

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