[Photograph: Maggie Hoffman]

You don't go to Red Lobster for the pizza. But among their "Seaside Starters" there is a pizza, and I couldn't resist trying it.

The cracker-thin crust is tortilla-like; like a very crisp open-face quesadilla. It's topped with salty mozzarella, flavorless chopped tomatoes, and plenty of what the menu calls langostino lobster. The cheese is slightly browned on top but is a little more chewy than creamy. The flavors aren't bad, though, and the whole thing is surprisingly light and snackable. In fact, it's the best thing we ate during our visit.


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