Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

[Photographs: J. Kenji Lopez-Alt]

The pies at Fornino in Williamsburg come out of a wood burning oven, but they are by no means Neapolitan. Somewhere at the intersection between a traditional coal-fired New York pie and a true Neapolitan, they've got a crisp crust and a deep brown, charred underbelly. Bright tomato sauce and house made fior de latte scream freshness, while an impressive list of topping variations offers something for everyone.

Unfortunately, these pies can be a bit hit or miss. Sometimes the crust comes out a perfect tender-crisp, though on my most recent visit, it was a little tough. Still, for an elegant, whole pie joint in the middle of the hustle and bustle of Bedford Ave, it's probably your best bet.

Fornino

187 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11211 (near North 7th; map)
718-384-6004; forninopizza.com