Walk up to the counter at Campo de'Fiori in Brooklyn's Park Slope and it's hard not to feel hungry, with squares of mozzarella and prosciutto-topped pizza spread before you. But my favorite order on the weekend is called simply the Brunch Special ($6.50)—a sizeable square of potato, onion, and bacon-topped pizza with a poached egg and salad. It's simple, but prepared with attention to detail: I thought I'd need a shake of salt on the poached egg, but found the underside already salted; the yolk broke open in a perfect, slow ooze. With the egg spilling over what's essentially hash browns, bacon, and bread all at once, it's everything good about brunch in a slice of pizza, and of a size that left me satisfied rather than comatose.
And rather than being frantic during a brunch rush, the staff was solicitous and relaxed—the owner waited on our table and the one next to us, and after the two somewhat ornery women there found nothing "normal" on the brunch menu, he walked back into the kitchen to whip up an off-menu omelet himself. (They proclaimed it "delicious," beamed with happiness, and gave him a hearty handshake.) That's what I call service.