A Hamburger Today

Daily Slice: Cacio e Vino, East Village


[Photographs: Maggie Hoffman]

When we ordered a Origanata Siciliana at Cacio e Vino, I assumed it would be a square pie with a thick crust. But what arrived was round and slim, crisp at the edges without much rise. The crust was a bit player, really, just serviceable. The cornicione was lightly bubbled and toasty but stiff, and each slice was a little limp at the tip, but not really delicate or delicious enough to merit the sag.


The toppings, though, were artful: slivers of raw purple onions added a little crunch and some sweetness, the intact anchovies contributing just enough salt and briny flavor. The sauce was uncooked and light, bright and fresh-tasting with a sprinkling of oregano and just a touch of caciocavallo cheese on top. Sweet, salty, and savory were all well harmonized. I'm not sure this crust could handle heftier toppings, but I was pretty happy with this pie.

Cacio e Vino

80 Second Avenue, New York NY 10003 (map)
212-228-3269; cacioevino.com

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