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Daily Slice: Picco, Boston

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately. The Mgmt.

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[Photograph: Carey Jones]

Sausage, broccoli rabe, and olive pizza? Short rib and gorgonzola? On almost any crust out there—a thin New York–style, a fluffy Neapolitan—toppings of this portion and punch would totally overwhelm. But not at Boston's Picco. Rick Katz, a pastry chef and baker before he started the South End restaurant, creates a crust that's bready in the best of ways—high-edged and aggressively crunchy, with an insanely flavorful yeasty, slightly sour chew, the result of two days of cold fermentation.

With Lioni mozzarella, housemade sausage, broccoli rabe, and no short supply of olives, the Broccoli Rabe, Sausage & Olive ($13.50) is one of our favorites on the regular menu. But the Short Rib and Gorgonzola ($13.50) on the special menu right now is even more appealing—the meat falls apart and spreads gently over the crust, with sparing dots of the pungent cheese, caramelized onions, and a much-needed gremolata (lemon zest, garlic, and parsley) to up the acid and save this pie from unconscionable richness. I never would've thought a short rib pizza could work, but when it does, it's fantastic. Add a great selection of beer on tap and phenomenal housemade ice cream and you've got yourself one of my favorite meals in Boston.

Picco

513 Tremont Street, Boston MA 02116 (map)
617-927-0066; piccorestaurant.com

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