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Dessert Calzone: Gnocco, East Village

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[Photograph: Maggie Hoffman]

"You have to get it! It's your birthday!" my brunch date said. So I complied and ordered Gnocco's Nutella calzone ($13). You know how these things go. They served it with a candle punched through the top.

Does Nutella-filled calzone, baked in a pizza oven until molten, topped with a dollop of unsweetened ricotta, count as dessert pizza? Maybe, maybe not, but it was pretty tasty, like a cross between a doughnut, a crêpe, and a calzone, but with enough sugar to leave you comatose for days. I'd love to see what a chef could do with a less-sweet chocolate-hazelnut concoction, but for now at least it's better than Papa John's dessert offering.

Gnocco

337 East 10th Street, New York NY 10009 (map)
212-677-1913; gnocco.com

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