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Daily Slice: Duck Confit Pizza Bistro from Forest Grill, Birmingham, Michigan

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photograph: Daniel Zemans]

When I headed to Detroit a couple of weeks ago with a list of eateries to check out, none ranked higher than Forest Grill, where Chef Brian Polcyn works magic with charcuterie. I was not there for pizza, but rather to eat masterpieces like fried pork confit and a lobster, green apple, and pancetta risotto. That said, since there were three pizzas on the menu, I couldn't resist trying one.

The Duck Confit Pizza Bistro is topped with Pecorino Toscano and raspberry vinaigrette-dressed greens, along with housemade duck leg confit.

I expected and received greatness from the rich duck confit and mild, slightly nutty cheese. But while the raspberry vinaigrette provided a variation of the sweet acidic tang we normally get from tomatoes, it remained much more salad dressing than sauce. And with no melted cheese and no tomato sauce, I was left with the same feeling I had after eating flatbreads at Marcus Samuelsson's C-House in Chicago; this was a delicious composed salad, but beyond my broad definition of pizza.

Forest Grill

735 Forest Avenue, Birmingham MI 48009 (map)
248-258-9400; theforestgrill.com

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