Daily Slice

A different slice profiled each day.

Daily Slice: Gnocco, East Village

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[Photographs: Maggie Hoffman]

Gnocco serves pizza at brunch, but there aren't any egg-topped pies to be had. There's a marinara and another pizza with eggplant, an option with prosciutto and arugula, and another with speck and truffle sauce. We stuck with the Margherita, topped with fior di latte (there's another pie with buffalo mozzarella and cherry tomatoes for five bucks more.)

The sauce was fresh and just sweet enough, and the mozzarella was decent, though a little chewier and less milky than I prefer. There were a total of four leaves of fresh basil on this pie, which seemed a little skimpy.

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The crust was index-card thin, crackery without much give, and quite spotted underneath. Though I prefer a little more puff in my pizza, this pie was pleasantly light. A generous pour of olive oil tasted wonderful, but by the end, the plate (and leftover slices) were a little on the greasy side.

This isn't a pizza I'd go out of my way for in a neighborhood with such strong pies, but the garden out back at Gnocco is pleasant, and it's never too crowded at brunch.

Gnocco

337 East 10th St, New York, NY 10009 (map)
212-677-1913; gnocco.com

More East Village Pizza

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Solo »
Numero 28 »

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