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Daily Slice: Gyro Uno, Astoria, Queens

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photograph: Adam Kuban]

Greek-style pizza is more a New England thing than a New York one, but if you're looking for the genre, where else to search but Astoria? Gyro Uno came up earlier this year as one place to find it, and, yes, it's there.

It's not really mentioned on the menu — just know that the "Individual Pizza" ($6.50 for plain) is the pan-cooked, Greek-style pizza you want. While some folks in the aforementioned thread mentioned that Greek-style has a less-crisp crust, the foundation of Gyro Uno's pies are overwhelmingly firm and veering toward crunch territory. Sauce? Well, it's there, but its flavor is hardly discernible. What is there is cheese. Oodles of it, in fact, and it blankets the almost-pan-fried dough in a thick, melty layer that desperately clings to your slice as you try to remove it from the pie. I recommend adding toppings, as the plain pie is, well, pretty plain tasting without them. If you're brave, the "Gyro Uno Special" comes with pretty much every topping and shaved gyro meat on top. I'm saving that for another time.

Gyro Uno

28-01 Steinway Street, Astoria NY 11103 (at 28th Avenue; map)
718-274-4870

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