Sean Taylor of 31 Days of Pizza joins us with a Daily Slice. —The Mgmt.

[Photographs: Sean Taylor]

Flanked by two subway exits at 155th Street in Harlem, I ♥ NY Pizza is a flatiron-shaped pizzeria with a small dining area and a bulletproof cage around the kitchen. Although the pizzeria is tiny, the pies are big. A single cheese slice measures 11 inches from tip to outer edge and 8 inches across.

Possible signs of the cooking grid on the slice's underside.

The sturdy undercrust is thin but not stiff. The end crust is a bit doughy and could benefit from a little more time in the oven (and a pinch of salt). Proceed with caution as you take your first bite: The slices are served piping hot and oozing with stringy mozzarella.

Beneath the cheese lies a thick smear of tangy red sauce, prepared with a hefty dose of dried oregano. The sauce delivers a potent cooked-down tomato paste flavor; it's a little sweet and salty for my taste. This slice will fill you up in a pinch, but it's nothing I'd trek back to Harlem for.

Don't get me wrong, I do ♥ New York pizza, just not I ♥ NY Pizza's pizza.

I ♥ NY Pizza

900 Saint Nicholas Avenue, New York NY 10032 (near 155th Street; map)
212-368-2300