Click me bigger to read poster » [Photographs: Adam Kuban]

Hardcore Oprah fans may remember that in 2006 Ms. Winfrey and her friend Gayle King went on the hunt for the best pizza in the U.S. Among other joints (Ledo in College Park, Maryland; Pizzeria Bianco in Phoenix) they put the spotlight on Mariella Pizza in New York City.

Click the photo above to read the sign. One of the best pizzas in the country is just steps from Gayle's New York City office? How convenient. I don't know about you, but when I've lost track of time at work and am late for lunch and hungry, things tend to taste so much better. So how is it really?

I wouldn't say it's the best pizza in the U.S., or even the best pizza in New York City, but a plain slice at Mariella is pretty good. About in the middle for thickness as far as New York slices go, it's got a nice crust with a good crumb and is balanced with plenty of good-quality Grande brand cheese — but not too much. It could use a little more sauce, but what comes through is nicely flavored — not too sweet, just enough of the typical New York slice herb mixture. Overall it's just salty enough and doesn't need much more in the way of shake-on condiments.

It's a serviceable slice. If you're near a Mariella location (there are four in Manhattan; I tried the slice at the 60th Street shop across from Bloomingdale's) and need a reliable pizza fix, there you go.

Mariella Pizza

151 East 60th Street, New York NY (Lexington/Third; map)
212-319-5999; mariellapizzanyc.com