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[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

Inconspicuously located just steps away from the Burke Avenue subway stop, Three Boys From Italy offers a solid neighborhood slice. The mozzarella is soft and gooey. Any more cheese might prove overwhelming. The tangy tomato sauce has just enough acidity to compete with the rich creaminess of the cheese. Though the sauce is not heavily flavored with herbs, every now and then a hint of oregano reveals itself.

The crust is a bit thicker than your typical New York slice. The bottom is cooked to a dark brown, with scattered specks of black, but it guards a light and porous interior. Particularly satisfying was the chewy crust, with cracked edges that crunch loudly between your teeth.

Three Boys is just a 10-minute bus ride from the Bronx Zoo's Pelham Parkway entrance, and well worth a stop.

Three Boys from Italy

704 Burke Avenue, Bronx NY 10467 (map)
718-882-2009

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