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Daily Slice: The Hercules at Pegasus, Seattle

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[Photographs: Adam Lindsley]

On the tourist-choked strip of waterfront real estate known as Alki Beach in West Seattle, there are two purveyors of pizza catering to two very specific groups of clientele. For the discriminating pizza aficionado, there's the upscale Phoenecia (expect a full review soon). And for the drunken masses who just want something to soak up all the Bud Light, there's Pegasus.

There's no better pizza on the menu to absorb that alcohol than The Hercules, and you'll want to be either intoxicated or trudging through knee-high snowdrifts in the dead of winter when you dive into this beast of a pie. Atop the spicy, heavily-herbed red sauce, a medley of Canadian bacon, pepperoni, salami, and sausage is mixed with nigh-obscene amounts of aged mozzarella, then topped with dense meatballs that have been lightly scorched in the oven. There's a certain sweetness in the cheese neither I nor my waiter could pinpoint, but the salt of the abundant cured meats quickly dominated all other flavors present in the pie. And that's not a bad thing; the meats are savory and hit the spot, as long as you don't mind consuming a glut of them.

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The crust is a hybrid of deep-dish and pan pizza. It's deep and thin enough on the bottom to house a full inch of sauce, cheese, and meat, but the outer rim is much thicker. It's cooked in a round metal pan greased in oil. The crust isn't buttery like deep-dish pizza, but more like fried bread dough, and easily my favorite component of this pie.

So if you find yourself stumbling down Alki Avenue and in desperate need of some heavy nourishment, then by all means make a beeline for Pegasus.

Pegasus Pizza & Pasta

2770 Alki Avenue SW, Seattle WA 98116 (map)
206-932-4849; pegasuspizza.com

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