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A different slice profiled each day.

Daily Slice: Harry's Bishops Corner Pizza, West Hartford, Connecticut

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photographs: Leeanne Griffin]

Regulars at Harry's Bishops Corner know there are two menus: the traditional, year-round one, and the list of rotating specialty pizzas meant to reflect the changing seasons. In summer, that usually means something with fresh local tomatoes. Cold-weather pies are robust, with hearty toppings and bold flavor combinations to cut through the miserable chill.

As Greater Hartford is literally groaning under the weight of seven feet of snow, I knew it would take one serious pizza to stand up to this never-ending winter. Harry's Bistecca e Gorgonzola pie ($15.25 for a small, $24.75 large) delivered. Thin slices of balsamic-marinated flank steak, roasted red peppers, Gorgonzola, fresh basil and cracked black pepper and tomato sauce topped Harry's thin-yet-substantial crust.

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Despite its name, the steak and cheese didn't dominate the pie. In fact, the bright tang of the roasted red peppers stood out and served to highlight the other toppings. The Gorgonzola was subtle, except for the areas where the cheese crumbles were concentrated. If you hit those precise spots on the slice, it was an explosion of funky flavor.

Besides the seasonal specialties, Harry's sets itself apart with its super-affordable wine list (many bottles are listed at just $10; the most expensive is $22) and the little cups of lemon Italian ice served gratis with the check. Even if you've stuffed yourself silly, it's a nice little palate-cleansing touch.

Harry's Bishops Corner

732 North Main Street, West Hartford, CT (map)
860-236-0400; harrysbc.com

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