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Daily Slice: Domenick's, The Bronx
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
The plain slice ($2.75) at Domenick's on Allerton in the Bronx is pretty average. A prodigious amount of grease gathers on top of the mozzarella, which isn't quite as creamy as we'd like. The sauce is a bit bland and lacking bright tomato flavor. But the slightly thicker-than-average crust is bubbly and browned, with a nicely puffy end crust.
Domenick's chicken and fresh tomato slice ($4.00) is far better. It's late-night-snack greasy, but not overly so. Unlike the shriveled cutlets on most chicken pizzas, the lemony chicken bites retain quite a bit of moisture and herby flavor. The crust is crisp across the bottom but slightly doughy inside, just hefty enough to balance the toppings.
1015 Allerton Avenue, Bronx NY 10469 (map)