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Daily Slice: New Park Pizza

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photographs: Adam Kuban]

I've been hitting a lot of old-school, beloved pizzerias in the city in recent weeks. It's just where my head's at lately. Notable Queens favorite New Park Pizza, in Howard Beach, has an ardent fanbase and a ton of character (especially at night, when the sign is on and neon steam rises from the glowing pizza pie).

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The pizza here comes from a massive fire-spewing, gas-fired brick oven. Be sure to look for it, tucked away in the corner behind the glass partition of the take-out area up front. Slice pies sit none too long, ready to serve a steady stream of customers. I've found the pizza here can be a bit floppy unless you ask, as the regulars do, for a well-done slice or pie.

The sauce is a bit too sweet, but the salty crust helps counteract it, as does the mild bit of char you'll get on one that's been in the oven a hair longer than usual. It's a smaller, well-balanced slice that probably lends itself to a double order. Though a Sicilian is also pictured here, I'd stick with the regular.

It's a trek to get to New Park if you're not from the neighborhood or aren't in a car. I don't know if I'd send you there via public transit, but if you're driving the Belt Parkway, it's definitely worth the quick detour.

New Park Pizza

156-71 Cross Bay Boulevard, Howard Beach NY (at 157th Avenue; map)
718-641-3082; newparkpizza.com

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