[Photograph: Robyn Lee]

The Tribeca Amish Market bills itself as a fine foods grocery store. My slice of their buffalo chicken pizza indicates the prepared food is rather fine as well.

The underside of the crust was a bit soft, but the endcrust retained its chew even as it cooled. It could have used a bit more salt. Though the crust varied in thickness, it remained sturdy enough to support the weight of the chicken and the oozing cheese.

And the chicken was plentiful. Marinated overnight in Frank's hot sauce, the juicy chunks of grilled white tenders offer a flavorful kick. We appreciated that they weren't heavily breaded. It's a junk food slice built with a bit of finesse, and I couldn't help but like it.

Amish Market

53 Park Place, New York NY 10007 (map)
212-608-3863; amishtribeca.com/