A Hamburger Today
Daily Slice: Mulberry Street Pizza, Manchester, Connecticut
At Mulberry Street Pizza, New York–style thin crust meets Hollywood with a "Blockbuster" menu of specialty pies. Each one has a cinematic moniker ("As Good As It Gets," "Wizard of Oz," "Goodfellas," "Backdraft") and unusual toppings.
Of the twenty Blockbusters, the "Italian Job" ($15.25 for a small) is one of the most popular. It starts with a slick of tangy lemon cream sauce, topped next with Romano cheese, thin sliced prosciutto, basil, and caramelized onions.
The first time I had this pizza, the flavors really impressed me. The subtly sour smack of the lemon came through brightly, and the salty prosciutto cut through the rich cream sauce. At the end of the bite, there was the fragrant basil, finished off by the sugary-sweet onions. The flavors came in waves, complementing each other at every turn.
But that awesome flavor spectrum had much to do with the ratio of ingredients. A more heavy-handed serving of caramelized onions on a recent visit threatened to overwhelm the savory toppings, throwing off the balance.
The brick-oven crust is nicely golden-brown at the edges, but especially thin and limp toward the middle of the pie. It's not quite sturdy enough to support some of the Blockbusters' more robust toppings, like mashed potatoes and breaded chicken.