Slice

Daily Slice: T. Anthony's, Boston

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[Photographs: Meredith Smith and Rachel Marks]

My manias tend to create lists, and T. Anthony's has been on my pizza list for a couple of years. Multiple trusted sources named it when I was scouring the city for thin-crust and New York–style pizza. When I finally tried it, I made the mistake of going sober. It was one of the greasiest pizzas I've had in years.

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While it was excessively greasy, the crust was a strength. The dough is hand stretched. Crackling walls line the interior pockets of the bubbled up cornicione and there is good charring in spots. It sports a nice crumb and chew, but about a third of the way down from the rim of the pie, the crust becomes completely flimsy. The only folding that could happen with this slice is tip to end-crust, because even folded in half it's gonna flop.

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Plain cheese is safer than pepperoni, which renders out so much fat that the slice becomes a complete oil slick. I wanted to blame the pepperonis for turning both sides of the pie orange, but I think the grade of cheese doesn't help. T. Anthony's uses a blend of part-skim and whole milk cheese, so unless my slice got topped with a handful of whole milk, on multiple visits, then it must be the quality of the cheese that causes it to break and grease up the place.

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The sauce, also made in-house, has some peppery zip to it, and an herb finish. The ratio of cheese-to-sauce was heavy on the cheese side. The topping distribution was sporadic and hefty, with a heavy concentration of toppings towards the pizza's center. A structurally unsound move for the T. Anthony's pies.

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I had high hopes. So what am I missing here? What is it that advocates of T. Anthony's love, other than it's a late night pizza stop on Comm Ave?

T. Anthony's Pizzeria

1016 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, MA (map)
617-734-7708; tanthonypizzeria.com

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