On Sunday, Pizza Hut introduced its new Ultimate Stuffed Crust pizza. For $12.99 you get a 14-inch pie with pepperoni, sausage, bacon, and cheese (or just pepperoni and cheese) inside the crust.
Not all Pizza Hut locations are serving this new pizza: We could only find one branch in our area offering it. If your heart is set on trying it out, call first.
The pizza was topped with slightly greasy and inelastic mozzarella. The underside was marginally browned and dimpled; we'd wager there's a screen involved in the baking.
The sauce was on the sweet side but was mostly overwhelmed by all the meat thrown on top—our pizza had sausage and pepperoni tucked beneath the cheese. They tasted enough like what they were supposed to be, but we wished for a little more spice.
As for the "ultimate stuffed crust," well, it may be inherently flawed. As we've noted before, the Pizza Hut crust tends to be doughy. This special-edition pie has a particularly gigantic crust, which further emphasized the doughy softness and leaned too heavily on what tasted like artificial butter and too much underfermented yeast. As one editor said, "More of a bad thing doesn't make it better." The crust appears golden brown, but it wasn't crisp; a little more textural contrast would help.
We were hoping for a crust oozing with melted cheese and spicy meat, but the cheese resisted melting, and the filling was a bit bland and didn't completely fill the available space.
Was it the Ultimate? Not really. Perhaps we should get The Pizza Lab working on a spicier, oozier version with really good pizza dough.