Behind the Slice: Nick's Pizza, Forest Hills
Truth is, Nick's Pizza was not my first choice for a review this week. I actually went to Verde Coal-Oven Pizza with the intention of giving it the spotlight. But when I got to Verde what I found was a very nice owner one and a half weeks in to a new venture, still working out the kinks, in a neighborhood that could use more places like this. The pizza showed promise but wasn't quite there. It wouldn't have been fair to formally review the place for Slice and fault it. It's way too early.
So I ended up at Nick's Pizza, a joint that's been around since 1993 and has its shit down pat.
I like Nick's. I think the crust could stand a little more oven spring, and it's sometimes a bit dry. But the quality of the sauce and cheese is outstanding. Even if they did bork the distribution a bit.
It's always interesting how old standbys play out in the media. When I first started pizza-blogging, Nick's was probably in the Top 10 of many a food writer or food lover. These days, it seems to be a cult favorite instead while all the new-fangled Neapolitan joints strut their stuff.
But Nick's seems to be doing well, which is good. I always like an excuse to visit Forest Hills.
108-26 Ascan Avenue
Forest Hills NY 11375 (at Austin; map)