Daily Slice: Blanco from Kennett, Philadelphia
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
Newly opened Kennett in the Queen Village section of South Philly is the sort of place you want in your neighborhood—well-curated cocktail menu, exciting beer list featuring a geeky, rotating draft selection, and a brief but very smart menu of cheese and charcuterie, as well as a handful of burgers, starters, entrées, and desserts. It was one of those places that had been on my "to eat" list for a while, especially after hearing that they were offering wood-fired pizzas.
On a recent Saturday night, they featured a chalkboard special, the Blanco ($15), topped with stinging nettles, ramp piccalilli, and stracciatella. It was the kind of pizza that could only happen in the first days of April—a good, charred crust topped with stracciatella (think milder mozzarella), herbaceous nettles, and a pickled mix of ramps, green beans, and carrots scattered over top. The pizza was finished with a few leaves of chervil and a handful of walnuts that weren't exactly necessary but added crunch and an oily nuttiness.
It's early spring in pizza form, all greens and veggies, young cheese and herbs, best enjoyed with an equally springy beer like Rogue Juniper Pale Ale that Kennet just happens to have on tap.