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[Photograph: Carey Jones]

We've written about Ortine's breakfast pizza before, but since then, they've added new breakfast pizzas to their menu, including "Eggs in Purgatory" ($12). As a nonpizza dish, Eggs in Purgatory (similar to a shakshuka) is a mighty delicious thing, the eggs baked in a spicy tomato sauce. It's easy to see how that might translate to a pizza (though I'd never seen it before).

Two eggs join a spicy red sauce, caramelized onions, Parmesan, and basil atop a thin crust. That crust is actually a good deal better than I remember Ortine's being. Whereas once it was not too flavorful and almost crackerlike, now it's pliant and chewy with a good yeasty flavor. I would've liked a little more of the appealingly spicy sauce, and for it to have spread farther out on the pizza; the sauceless "bones" were pretty thick, all of the good stuff clustered in the middle. Still, runny eggs and tomatoes are a great combination, and on a pretty tasty crust, even more so.

Ortine

622 Washington Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11238 (at Pacific Street; map)
718-622-0026; ortine.com

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