Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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Chef Frank Bonanno is one of the more open and outspoken chefs in Denver. A couple of weeks ago, I ducked into Osteria Marco, Bonanno's casual Italian restaurant that has an assortment of pizzas on the menu. I had three good pies, but it turned out that a condiment stole the show.

The best pizza I tried was the Margherita, which was a well-balanced example of the classic pie, highlighted by a particularly good housemade mozzarella. The crust could have used more salt and was much more heavily cooked on the bottom than the top, but it wasn't objectionable. The real star of the meal, however, was the jar of chili oil which added a deep, smooth heat to everything it touched. Once I discovered the oil, I put progressively more on each slice of pizza, and when the pizza was done, I had a spoonful of it on its own.

Osteria Marco

1453 Larimer Street, Denver, CO 80202 (map)
303-534-5855; osteriamarco.com

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