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Pizza reviews in NYC.

Daily Slice: White Slice from Emilio's of Morris Park, the Bronx

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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[Photographs: Robyn Lee]

When you sit down with your white slice from Emilio's of Morris Park ($4.25), the first thing you'll notice is an aggressive garlic steam wafting toward you. But the garlic flavor works in tandem with the rich cheese to make for a comforting junk-food slice.

The slice itself is a bit bigger than your standard New York utility: what Bronxites sometimes call a "jumbo." Atop the crust, there is a layer of oily yellow mozzarella interrupted only by islands of creamy, smooth ricotta. The milky sweetness of the ricotta offered a respite from the heavy mozzarella. While the crust's flavorful underside was pleasantly browned and just crisp enough, the end crust was a bit too doughy and soft.

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Emilio's massive plain slice ($2.75) isn't quite as good. The sauce is slightly sweet and not super flavorful, but it's well proportioned with standard-issue cheese on the mildly chewy crust. It's fine for a neighborhood slice, though we'd pick the ricotta pie every time.

Emilio's of Morris Park

1051 Morris Park Avenue, Bronx NY 10461 (map)
718-822-6758; emiliosofmorrispark.com

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