Daily Slice: Pizza Plus, Hell's Kitchen
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
I might never have set foot in Pizza Plus had it not been for the colorful topping-heavy creation called the Napolitana. The narrow 20-seat dining area in this no-frills pizzeria did not leave a lasting impression, but the radiant green, white, and red Napolitana ingredients drew me in.
Each slice of the Napolitana is topped with diced fresh tomatoes, artichoke hearts, fresh mozzarella, basil, pesto, garlic, and olive oil. This is a lot to stack on the thin, garlicky, pastrylike crust, which gets a bit brittle in the gas-fueled deck oven. Don't attempt a fold—this slice will crack right away.
Out-of-season tomatoes are always a little sour, and the sourness was accentuated by the marinated artichokes, but this was nearly balanced by the rich sweetness of the pesto and mozzarella (which didn't quite melt). It was almost more salad-on-a-tart-crust than pizza, but I found it satisfying and unusual, if a bit expensive at $4.50 a slice.
642 Ninth Avenue, New York NY 10036 (at 45th Street; map)