Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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A steady stream of Somerville men and women pass through the doors of LaRonga Bakery on Somerville Avenue, daily. It's a real neighborhood place (more like a deli inside than a bakery), where you go to buy hoagie rolls or a sub for lunch; there's nothing so high-falutin as a croissant. And while it is mostly sandwiches and clear bags of rolls that the stream of Somerville residents take home, it's their slices that bring my business.

The sturdy under crust is really what cemented my love affair with their pizza. It's marked by a crisp crunch from tip to end-crust; the number one quality I look for in a thin crust slice. The thicker, puffed edge has a nice structure with good chew and elasticity. Their cheese is pretty run-of-the-mill, but applied in good measure. To the salty, bright tomato sauce, there is an almost meaty quality.

I don't think they make a ton of by-the-slice pizzas, so it is better to go during the lunch hour to catch the pies early on in their shelf-life. Normally, I would get a cheese slice ($1.75) but the curled-lip, crisp rounds of pepperoni ($2) were on the slices with the best browned crusts. That may speak to their consistency, but even on a "bad" day there's nothing so wRonga with 'em. (Sorry, I couldn't help myself.)

LaRonga Bakery

599 Somerville Avenue, Somerville MA 02143 (map)
617-625-8600; larongabakery.com

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