[Photograph: Carey Jones]

We've meant to visit Ledo's in College Park, MD, ever since a Slice'r wrote in to tell us that their "thin crust, almost crackerlike" and "party-style cut" might constitute a unique style left out of our regional pizza style guide.

And after trying a pizza, we agree. Ledo's is now a statewide chain, but we stopped by the original location (though that spot itself relocated from Adelphi to College Park in 2010). To our understanding, it's generally served as a rectangular pizza, not a round one, which is what we were handed after we called for pickup; nonetheless, there was plenty that made this an unusual pie.

It's the crust that stands out. Thin, but not crackerlike, it almost resembles a pastry or the edges of a biscuit in its flakiness and total oil saturation. The cheese spills over the edges of the crust, too, giving it a bit of a grilled cheese effect.

The only pizza I've had that remotely resembles Ledo's is what I remember of Domino's Thin Crust, which (at least at one point; I don't think I've tried it in a decade) had the same flaky-thin thing going. But Ledo's is much better. Pretty sauce-laden, and cheese-greasy in a good way, the whole package makes for a satisfying pizza.

The Original Ledo Restaurant

4509 Knox Road, College Park MD 20740 (map)
301-422-8122
ledorestaurant.com