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Pizza reviews in the Portland area.

Daily Slice: Bella Faccia Pizzeria, Portland, Oregon

Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.

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The Fnord? slice at Bella Faccia Pizzeria. [Photographs: Jim Bonomo]

A trip to the Alberta Arts district rewards the traveler with some great pizza options. Bella Faccia has long been a haven for starving vegans, which may give my cheese-eating brethren the wrong idea about their commitment to a traditional slice. I am not the best judge of marinated tempeh or seitan strips, but for my money, Bella Faccia puts out one of the best and most consistently satisfying non-vegan slices in town.

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The Fnord? was, like all slices at Bella Faccia, super thin, crisp-bottomed and totally foldable. Toppings here included Canadian bacon, red onion, "chaos"*, and chopped garlic; this mix somehow managed to achieve balance and subtlety. The slice was impressively sized yet lightweight, and the tomato sauce delivered a flavor which highlighted the richness of olive oil and sweet herbs. The pork element was meaty and easy on the salt; a post-mozzarella sprinkling of pizzeria Parmesan added that missing seasoning element. The crust benefitted from an on-demand reheat; it added a brittle browned crust around the chewy, porous interior. After one slice, I was hard pressed not to order another Fnord? immediately. Kinda because I wasn't totally full and kinda because it tasted awesome.

Bella Faccia offers a delicious and reliable utility slice to satisfy the most primal pizza craving. Imagine the most perfect combination of New York slice shop pizza, mall pizza, boardwalk pizza, and frozen pizza, and you've got an idea what Bella Faccia is serving up to the hungry masses of Alberta Street.

*In keeping with the Dischordian theory it's named after, "chaos" is listed as an additional Fnord? ingredient.

Bella Faccia Pizzeria
2934 NE Alberta Street, Portland OR 97211 (map)

503-282-0600; bellafacciapizzeria.com

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