Daily Slice: Pritty Boys Family Pizzeria, Seattle
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
Despite enduring one of the worst dining experiences in recent memory, it's easy for me to recommend Pritty Boys Family Pizzeria. Not for the act of actually eating there—which was ruined start to finish by swarms of screaming toddlers banging plastic blocks together in the restaurant's fenced-in play area—but for the well-executed pizza.
One glance at the menu and the meat-lover's eyes will jump straight to The Craver ($18.50 for small). Pepperoni, housemade sausage, Canadian bacon, and ground beef bacon all fight for prominence, and some meats are definitely more distinct than others. You don't see beef bacon all that often, but its mild flavor has a tough time standing out here. Same goes for the Canadian bacon.
The sausage and pepperoni, however, are front and center. The sausage is of the crumbled variety and has a pronounced meaty, pork-y flavor. I like how crunchy it gets in the gas oven, not usually an attribute I'd desire in a sausage but one that works quite well in this instance. The pepperoni is thin enough that it forms crispy-edged goblets of grease, and don't you dare dump out those cups on a napkin—that's flavor country right there! It's all served on a bed of aged mozzarella and a tangy, heavily herbed red sauce.
The pizzaiolo, Byron Hummel, hails from Phoenecia, a great little restaurant in West Seattle serving pizza with the fattest end crusts I've ever seen. That philosophy carries over here, with a billowy, chewy crust that could double as a flotation device. It's a good crust, but it makes for a lot of bread; thankfully you should have plenty of leftover grease from the pepperoni to mop up.
If you live in the Madrona neighborhood and are looking for a place to get some good pizza, as well as a restaurant that readily welcomes young children, Pritty Boys has your name all over it. If, on the other hand, you don't have a brood of three-year-olds in tow, do yourself a favor and get your pie to go unless you're some kind of masochist.
Pritty Boys Family Pizzeria
1430 34th Ave., Seattle, WA 98122 (map)