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Daily Slice: Famous Ben's Pizza of Soho, NYC
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
Speaking of sfincione... (previous post)
After a Soho slice tour with Kenji and his better half, I met up with Scott Wiener who was wrapping up one of his pizza tours (much more organized than our own) outside of Famous Ben's Pizza of Soho on Spring Street. We had already reached full slice capacity, and sure, a slice at Famous Ben's is nothing to turn your nose up at, but it's known to be heavy on the cheese; precisely the wrong sort of slice to pack in after a mini-bender.
But, what is that, Scott? Famous Ben's makes the Sicilian predecessor to the New York Sicilian and is the only known shop selling it in Manhattan? Hearing Scott wax poetic about this cheese-less square of pie, topped with breadcrumbs, and onions as transparent as glass, made fitting in one more slice seem doable. Who could pass up trying this sort of pizza pedigree?
The Palermo, turned out to be the lightest of the slices tried that day. The heft and weight of a typical slice comes from the crust and cheese department, but the body of the Palermo is in the breadcrumb thickened sauce. Laced with traces of roasted garlic and herbs, and lots of translucent, diced onions, it has a depth of flavor matched only by its textural depth. All resting on a pillow of dough with a lightly pan-fried bottom crust, the sfinicione at Ben's makes a good case for "just one more slice".
Famous Ben's Pizza of Soho177 Spring Street, New York, NY(map)