Daily Slice: Pini's Pizzeria, Somerville, Massachusetts
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
One of the biggest pizza gripes in Boston is that the Greek dominated piescape means no good thin slices around. Not true. Just outside of Somerville's Magoun Square is Pini's Pizza (try enunciating around children), located just next door to longtime, neighborhood dumpling favorite, Wang's (I know, I know). Over the years Pini's has had some dips in consistency, but a recent visit evidences a strong upswing—so you won't get shafted.
The slices aren't displayed anywhere, so you just have to ask. They have always been available whenever I've requested one, day or night. The $2 cheese slice comes sized like a double-wide. And while the intermittent crust puff may not inspire confidence, it is the crust department where Pini's really excels. As far as the texture of the undercrust goes, I don't think I could ask for more in this type of pizza parlor slice. There is a hollow crunch in the crispness—almost a crackle. While the low rise of the endcrust might suggest heavy density, the dough bakes up airy and light with a slight chew and a faint trace of yeast.
Cheese gets laid on a little heavier towards the middle of the slices, but it's got a satisfying chewiness and melts supremely well. The sauce is the one area where there is room for improvement. It is by no means bad, but if it could deliver on the flavor front like the crust does in terms of texture, then Pini's would have an amazing slice on their hands. As it stands, the sauce gets a little lost in the cheese due to under-seasoning. But honestly, it's a minor drawback. If there is a slice that can put an end to the "Greek gripe*" in Boston, it's Pini's.
511 Broadway, Somerville, MA 02145 (map)