Daily Slice: Luigi Pizzeria, Brooklyn
Daily Slice gives a quick snapshot each weekday of a different slice or pie that the folks at the Serious Eats empire have enjoyed lately.
Luigi Pizzeria, on Dekalb Avenue right near Pratt, is about as bare-bones as a pizzeria can get: oven, counter, half a dozen pies on display, and only room for 3 or 4 people to fit inside. But the counter guys are friendly, the prices are gentle, and the pizza, while nothing unusual, is incredibly satisfying.
While I thoroughly enjoyed a slice of Sicilian, despite the tiniest bit of undercooked dough in the middle, I preferred the plain slice ($2.25), the sort of lovable standard that you want to be on every New York corner, but really isn't. It's got a thin crust that's sturdy enough to fold in half with no sagging tip—critical, as you're probably going to eat this slice walking down the street—and at the edge, it's chewy and light under that outer crunch, crust good enough that I polished it off even when too full to finish the cheese-and-tomato parts. The sauce is simple and not too sweet, the cheese plentiful; but really, what strikes you when you're eating it is that it tastes like pizza—crust, sauce, cheese, in perfect proportion. It's a tad greasy, but not in the way of running off your slice in rivulets, just in that it leaves a little sheen on the lips—which is the kind of greasy I like.
326 Dekalb Avenue, Brooklyn NY 11205 (map)